This essay was published in a recent issue of Pravasi Bharatiya by the Ministry of Overseas Indian Affairs (under the title "Revisiting Satyagraha in Phoenix"). It's online in PDF form at that link, but I am posting here where it is easier to read.
No Indian cab driver will take me to Gandhi's house. Parked in front of the Holiday Inn at Durban's South Beach, the cabbies protest about safety. Someone asserts that since it has been raining, the main road will be washed out and we will get stuck at the bottom of the hill, unable to flee. The word impossible comes out a few times, with the sense that going there would be a bad idea, something you just don't do, like wandering through New York's Central Park at night. I walk back into the lobby, and a few minutes later a young driver, squat and tough looking with gel in his hair, comes in and agrees to take me. But when we get to the car, an older man intervenes and packs me into the front seat of his rusty Toyota. We head off — but not to the Phoenix settlement.
Merle, Darlene, and Merle's Niece Kezia in the Phoenix Township
Phoenix is the South African township, on the northern periphery of Durban, that began as an Indian settlement when Mohandas Gandhi, a young lawyer schooled in London, moved from Johannesburg in 1904 to focus his political activities on the plight of Indian laborers in the British colony. He built a school and a printing press, published a newspaper called the Indian Opinion, and organized a community around his ascetic, non-violent principles. The trust Gandhi established continued its mission even after he returned to India ten years later, and his style of political activism and passive resistance left its mark on the struggle against Apartheid. In 1985, during a particularly violent period toward the end of that era, poor blacks from a neighboring settlement laid waste to Phoenix, evicting the Indians and occupying their homes. An historic, prosperous township became a squatters' community, a slum. Gandhi's printing press, house, and school were destroyed.
The ruins of a school built in memory of Gandhi's wife, Kasturba
Today Phoenix comprises a collection of settlements, some Indian, some black. Many areas are comparatively well off, with apartment blocks and lighted streets, schools and cricket grounds. Others are shantytowns. The area around Gandhi's site is a black shantytown. This is where the Indian drivers refuse to go.
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